Buscalan, Kalinga: A Visit to the Apo Whang-Od
Often times, people with undeniable talent get so little attention until someone discover and write things about them. Social media has helped us, human beings, in so many ways from good to bad and has made our world a lot smaller. Apo Whang-Od is a living proof to this. Apo has always been known as the “Oldest Mambabatok” or “The last Kalinga tattoo artist” on different blogs and websites. I’m not sure if there really is a validation to this but I believe no one really knows exactly how old she is. Back in the days and especially in the mountain side, birth certificates were an alien thing. Although they do have some idea of her age, some claim she is 93, she said she’s 98. As for me, I can pretty much assume that she has lived for nearly a century now.
“Batok” is a traditional way of tattooing using thorns, charcoal, and bamboo stick. The tribal tattoos, just like any other tattoo, has its own meaning - for women, it’s a sign of beauty; a form of accessory marked on their bodies. For men, however, it signifies strength. The people of Kalinga, from the Butbut tribe, are known as head hunters. Thus the title Kalinga Warriors. The tattoos seen in the bodies of men are representation of the “heads” they have taken. In short, if a man has many tattoos, it simply mean he has killed many. The "Batok" is a tradition of the Butbut tribe and has been passed on to generations. Grace, Apo's grand niece, is said to be her successor. Sadly, this culture is slowly dying and sooner or later, this will just be part of history.
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| Tattoos can range from 300php up to 3000php depending on the size. |
There are two ways to reach Buscalan: one via Tabuk, and the other via Bontoc. If I remember correctly, the last trip from Tabuk is 1pm. In our case, we came from Bontoc. Last trip from Bontoc is 3pm and the fare is 100php. You may opt to ride top-load but I’d suggest seat first inside and take the top-load only when you are already in Bugnay (the last stop before Buscalan). They normally stop there to pick up passengers and unload things.
From the jump-off, you have to walk for 30-45 minutes to reach the village. At first, it may seem easy but once you take that “turn” (I know there’s a lot of ‘turn’ but you’ll know when you see it), the struggle starts. It’s like you’re in an endless stairs and seeing a sign of community was such a relief.
The trail is open and cemented so it can be really really hot especially in the afternoon. The view is merely mountains and bushes. Along the way, you'll pass by a river-falls which you can take a dip into. There are some parts wherein you have to be extra cautious but overall it's an easy but tiring walk.
The village is small, simple, and somewhat peaceful. We were the only guest in the village since it was a Monday. We stayed at Kuya Rogelio, whom we met in Bontoc when we were just asking for directions and coincidentally, he’s also from Buscalan and owns a homestay. So he ended up being our guide as well. Don’t you find it a bit convenient? hehe
I have to say they have such a lovely family. They were very accommodating and really helpful. At night, we were able to interact and hang out with some of the locals over beer and some games. At first, you could sense their shyness but once they loosen up, it’s all good and fun.
Things to know:
* 250php/night/person with food and unlimited Kalinga coffee
* Generally, guide fee is 500php. But honestly, going to the village is not really hard and complicated. You could find a lot of contact numbers of guides over the internet.
Rogelio Tambalong (guide) - +639363756899
Ana Tambalong (homestay) - +639300919191
* Very low to almost no signal for both service provider.
* Bring water and food. I’m not sure if there’s a sari-sari store there but we didn’t see any.
* Bring some matches for families and some candies for children.
* Flashlight can be really useful.
* Be respectful of the locals and their culture.
* 250php/night/person with food and unlimited Kalinga coffee
* Generally, guide fee is 500php. But honestly, going to the village is not really hard and complicated. You could find a lot of contact numbers of guides over the internet.
Rogelio Tambalong (guide) - +639363756899
Ana Tambalong (homestay) - +639300919191
* Very low to almost no signal for both service provider.
* Bring water and food. I’m not sure if there’s a sari-sari store there but we didn’t see any.
* Bring some matches for families and some candies for children.
* Flashlight can be really useful.
* Be respectful of the locals and their culture.
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| Photo courtesy of Gilbert Lerio |
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| Photo courtesy of Gilbert Lerio |
Grace is said to be Apo Whang-Od's successor. She's been to Dutdutan once.
Overall expenses with sidetrip to Bontoc:
Manila-Tabuk-Bontoc-Buscalan-Baguio-Manila (we backtrack a little because we missed the sign going to Tinglayan from Tabuk)
700 - bus from Kamias Cubao to Tabuk (12 hours)
200 - gas share
300 - Terraces View Guesthouse in Maligcong with food
100 - guide fee contribution for Mt. Kupapey
100 - jeep from Bontoc to Buscalan (1.5 hours)
250 - homestay in Buscalan with food and unlimited Kalinga coffee
100 - guide fee contribution (500/guide)
100 - habal habal from Buscalan to Bugnay
100 - jeep from Bugnay to Bontoc
212 - bus from Bontoc to Baguio (6 hours)
450 - bus from Baguio to Manila (5 hours)
300 - other expenses (entrance fee in Bontoc museum, miscellaneous)
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Keep smiling :)
